Trekking in Periyar Wildlife Park, near Kumily

After two days of doing nothing on the houseboat, it was time to get active and head into the mountains of Kerala for the trekking and cooler climate. Unfortunately, in order to get there we had to spend over five hours squashed into a government bus. I’m beginning to realise these journeys are essential in order to experience “real” India – but it doesn’t mean I have to like them. At least this time we were rewarded with views of tea plantations so green, they almost don’t look real.

View of tea plantations from the bus on the way up to Kumily.

It’s expensive to stay in Periyar Wildlife Park itself, so we stayed in the nearby town of Kumily which is just five minutes’ walk from the park gate. We found a great guest house called Green View which is run by Suresh, possibly the hardest working man in hospitality. One distinct memory I have is of when a massive family of South Africans of Indian origin arrived and one of them said to Suresh: “Right, we’ll check in and then you’ll show my aunties where to get a massage and you’ll take me to the Fedex place and then you’ll show us somewhere good to have dinner.” All said without one please or thank you, poor Suresh.

On our first day we booked into a nine-hour guided trek of the park which goes to where Kerala borders with Tamil Nadu. After over a month of no proper exercise, this sounded like the kind of thing we needed to kick us back into shape.

In Periyar it seemed like everyone else was properly equipped for trekking – all of these dreadlocked backpackers miraculously pulled out walking boots and practical clothes from their backpacks that were smaller than ours. We had to cobble together “trekking” outfits from what we had. The results were made even more attractive by the fact that we had to tuck our trousers into our socks to ward off leeches. The result was quite something, I’m sure you’ll agree...

Me and Luke in our "trekking" outfits.

A close up of Luke's sock in shoes combo.

That first photo was taken at 1,000 feet after we’d managed to scramble our way up quite a steep surface with lots of tree roots and plants in the way, ready to trip us up.

Our two guides, although they had limited English, were really knowledgeable and pointed out lots of interesting plants such as ginger, cardamom, cinnamon and clove which were all growing naturally in the jungle. Some of the herbs and spices have such expensive market prices that they have to have guards at night to make sure they don’t get cut down and stolen.

Our trek guides looking over into Tamil Nadu.

Animals we saw include a mongoose; lots of different deer, including some impressive stags; black monkeys, which we hadn’t seen before and most impressively a couple of giant squirrels playing in the trees – they really are giant compared to the squirrels we know.

I encountered some wildlife very close up in the form of a leech which I found sucking on my foot – so much for the jeans tucked into the socks combo to ward them off!

We also saw lots of bear and elephant poo but sadly none of the culprits. There must be a real threat of bumping into them though, as we were joined by a guide with a gun for part of the trek. They also say that tigers live in Periyar but I’m not convinced – I suspect the number of tigers living wild here is, like many things in India, exaggerated to suit their own gains.

Luke examines the antlers of a stag apparently killed by a tiger.

The next day we visited nearby tea plantations which are beautifully organised up the mountain side. The tuk-tuk driver turned guide and explained to us that the workers are treated very well – they get paid well, live in houses on the plantations, get healthcare and the children get schooled. It doesn’t stop it being back-breaking work though.

View from withing the tea plantation at Kumily.

On our third day in Kumily Luke felt sick and spent the day in bed, which meant I had a day on my own and also got the daily budget of £35 to myself. I don't want to wish Luke unwell but this was a treat!

First, I booked myself into a private yoga class for 400 rps (£4) with a man who had a roof terrace across the road from our hotel (possibly called Greenhill) and then had an Ayurvedic massage (800rps). Ayurveda is the ancient science of Indian herbal medicine and healing and, while I don’t really buy into it being a viable healing tool, the massages can be relaxing.

Getting a massage in India is a hit or miss experience. Firstly, I was shocked by the “all off” policy when it comes to underwear – surprising for such a prudish nation. Then, once it is “all off”, they aren’t backwards in coming forwards with the touching in quite intimate areas.

In Kumily, I also got put (naked) into a wooden steam box with just my head poking out. This humiliation was furthered by Gina (my masseuse) staring at me for 10 minutes and telling me that I’m “very beautiful”. As beautiful as a head poking out of a box can be.

Clearly this isn't me, but you get the idea...

Luke also had a funny incident in Varkala when he had a massage and afterwards was told to “relax” by the masseuse who then went for a very audible wee in the adjoining toilet!

If you ever find yourself in Kumily then it’s definitely worth spending sunset on one of the rooftops. At around 6.30pm every night, over 5,000 Flying Fox bats fly over en-masse from one side of the town to the other. I don’t know where they’re going or why, but the silent flying overhead makes for an atmospheric and slightly spooky sight.

Bats flying over Kumily.

USEFUL INFORMATION ABOUT KUMILY/PERIYAR WILDLIFE PARK:

Accommodation: We stayed at Green View Homestay on Bypass Road. Our room was 500 rps (£5) a night but there are rooms that are more expensive and it will be dearer in high season.

Eating and drinking: The cheapest places we found were the French Bakery and Coffee Garden which both did okay Indian and western food from 150 rps a dish. Chrissie’s also did nice Israeli food. As a whole we found the food in Kumily to be overpriced and quite bland.

Getting there and away: We got two government buses from Alleppey – the first to Kottyam (1 ½ hours, 60 rps) and then a second one from there to Kumily (4 ½ hours, 100 rps). The roads are windy and there’s lots of dangerous overtaking.

To get out to Cochin (for Fort Cochin) we got a government bus from the main stand in Kumily for about 120 rps. It's meant to take 5 hours but our bus took 8 - check it's direct before you get on it!

Trekking: All of the tours are a set price in Periyar and you book through the main office on Thekkady Road. Our day trek cost 1,500 rps each plus 300 rps each entry into the park. You can do 3-hour treks for less. There are touts about but it’s easier to go to the main office and book yourself.