Delhi & the Taj Mahal

Landing in Delhi was always going to be a baptism of fire and it didn't disappoint.

Our hotel was in the Pahaganj area of the city, next to New Delhi train station, where we got our first taste of Indian life. As soon as we stepped into the train station you could almost hear a collective intake of breath from the touts who saw fresh blood to con. Soon enough all of the excuses in the world came up as to why we couldn’t buy tickets there...

“Today is a public holiday so you must go to another station in a tuk tuk.”

“Foreigners can’t buy tickets here – they must go to another part of town.” (Again, in a tuk tuk)

“Tickets for that day have sold out because it’s a public holiday but my friend can take you there in a car.”

And so it went on. We were confused and suffering from jet lag so we made a quick exit, leaving a flurry of excitable touts behind us. We didn’t even make it to the official ticket desk.

Now we’ve been here nearly a week, we’re getting wise to the cons and better at bartering. I had to have a stern word with Luke (I know, poor Luke) as he was leaving it to me and the men didn’t take too kindly to being told what to do by a woman (imagine!). In the six days we’ve been here Luke’s gone from agreeing to the first price to bartering over 10p. That’s my boy!

Delhi itself was as expected. Very big, extremely dirty and ridiculously congested – we went on a day trip in a taxi and spent most of it sat in traffic. However, the Ghandi Smriti memorial, which is situated in the place where he died, was interesting and Humayan’s Tomb was impressive and provided peace from the big city. Our Nepalese driver took us to a Sikh temple at sunset which was atmospheric with worshipers and singing. He also showed us an immense kitchen where they feed 10,000 people every day - all for free.

Luke and I at the Sikh temple in Delhi - the bandanas were compulsory.

Jet lag was driving me a bit mad in Delhi and it wasn’t helped by a very loud wedding which took place outside our hotel window until 1am. It was held in the street where they'd put a few bits of awning over and hired a VERY LOUD sound system.

The wedding outside our hotel window in Delhi.

At 6am on Tuesday morning we took the fast train the Agra to see the Taj Mahal. The train ride was fabulous – we got brought hot chai and a breakfast of veggie fish fingers and bread. The Indians do trains so much better than the Brits.

Agra itself isn’t an amazing city – there’s a lot of poverty and pollution – but at the centre of it all is the imposing Taj Mahal. We stayed at the Hotel Kamal (900rps/£9) near to South Gate which has a rooftop view of the Taj and having breakfast with it as a view was an amazing way to start the day.

Breakfast with the Taj Mahal at Hotel Kamal in Agra.

As we only had one day there, we hired a tuk tuk driver, Vikram, to take us around the sights and took in the Itimad-Um-Daulah (also known as Baby Taj) and impressive Agra Fort before heading to the main event before sunset.

Me and Luke at the Taj Mahal.

The Taj Mahal is epic in size and it’s difficult believe such a thing was built before we had modern machinery. It was a labour of love as it was built by Shah Jahan (although not personally, I’m sure) as a memorial to his wife Mumtaz Mhal who died giving birth to their 14^th child in 1631. He was later overthrown by his son who locked him in Agra Fort with the Taj as a view for the rest of his days.

Picking up the Taj Mahal (had to be done).

The Taj appears to change colour as the sun sets – going from a milky white to yellow – and is definitely a “must-see” at least once in a lifetime.

The Taj Mahal at sunset.

While there, we also witnessed a monkey having a mini breakdown (I think he was OK).

Relaxed Monkey, busy eating...

Head in hands...

Oh God, what the hell did I do last night?!

Things we’ve learnt so far:

1. In India, every day is Movember.

2. Squat toilets are kind of more practical than western toilets. They just need to be cleaner.

3. Road rules are overrated. If you see a space, whatever side of the road it may be, try and squeeze into it and then beep very loudly.

4. You can’t eat too much dhal.

5. The “nice place” that a tuk tuk driver wants to take you for lunch will always be priced three times more that it should be. Just say no.

6. Seeing monkeys every day is pretty cool.